Everyone comes to Sicily
Just came back from a week in Sicily. I was with a group, sponsored by Journeys Connect , a tour operator that works with travel agents to put together group trips.
Having never been to Sicily before, I was excited to learn about this part of Italy that is so different from the rest of Italy. We went to 12 cities and regions, seeing most of the “triangle” except the north coast. Palermo and Catania were the big cities we went to, and smaller towns Syracuse, Taormina, Agrigento, Acireale, Noto, Erice, and Ortigia. Each place has a special character and very interesting sites to explore. Overall, the following are my top picks for the best of Sicily.
Temples and Archaeological Sites
So many temples, theaters and amphitheaters. Sicily was colonized by over 15 different groups and many have left their mark, especially Greek and Roman temple sites. Selinunte, on the southwest coast was one of the most important Greek cities around 400 BC. Over ten temples have been discovered, but only the Temple of Hera has been partially restored. Other archaeological sites we went to were The Valley of The Temples in Agrigento which is not really in a valley, but on a hilltop ridge near the town, and the Villa Romana del Casale, a Roman villa from the 4th century AD, which was covered by a mudslide in the 1100s and forgotten about until the late 1800s when professional archaeologists started excavating the site. Over 50 rooms and many brilliant mosaics have been uncovered and restored.
Selinunte
Valley of the Temples, Agrigento
Villa Romana del Casale
Food and Wine
The food is definitely a highlight in Sicily. Favorite regional dishes are panelle-chick pea polenta fries, and eggplant caponata. Everywhere we went, we had the local version of these great dishes, slightly different and always delicious. The wines we had were local, flavorful and not too expensive. The grape of choice is Nero d’Avola, but there are good whites and sparkling wines too.
Panelle-Chick Pea Polenta Fries
Caponata
Local Wine
Small Villages
Out of the way and mostly pedestrian, the small villages of Sicily were wonderful to see. Many are hilltop towns and require a good bit of walking up from the parking areas.
Small streets in Erice
Erice, in the northwest Trapani region, is a maze of cobblestone and brick streets, all going uphill to the Venus Castle, built on the remains of a temple to Venus, but remade by the Normans into a substantial fortress. Less than 1000 people live here permanently, but it is a popular summer vacation spot. Cute shops and good restaurants make this a pleasant day trip from Palermo or a rest stop on the way to Marsala and points south.
St. Nicholas Cathedral in Noto
Noto is the best example of Sicilian Baroque architecture, the entire city being rebuilt after a 1693 earthquake. The churches, theater, and public buildings are extremely interesting. We also found excellent gelato and espresso at the Caffe Sicilia. You can get the famous Modica chocolate at vendor stalls and in shops here.
Enter the village of Taormina
Taormina, on the east coast, north of Catania, is the big dog of the small towns in Sicily. Famous as a vacation haven for the rich and famous (and perhaps infamous) since the 1800s, it has only gained in popularity over the years. Walking through the city gates leads to a square and the main shopping streets. There are enormous views over the Ionian Sea and Mt. Etna. There is history here, too, with a well-restored Greek theater and baths. The 43rd G7 summit will be held here in May, 2017.
Marina at Aci Trezza
Aci Trezza, also on the east coast, north of Catania, is a small coastal village with a marina and picturesque haystack rocks just offshore. A bustling summer vacation spot, it has several seaside restaurants and hotels. On a misty day in March, the town was pretty quiet, and we enjoyed our walk along the foreshore thinking how busy this place will be when the weather warms up.
That’s barely scratched the surface of all there is to see and experience in Sicily, so look for more posts coming soon.
